“At the present time the vintage is in full swing throughout South Australia. Great wagon loads of grapes are arriving at the wineries, the elevators are rattling the fruit up to the crushers, and the ‘must’ is rushing down by means of gravitation to the immense tanks below…”
The above is an extract from, ‘The South Australian Vintage 1903’ by Ernest Whitington and published in The Register, yet it can be applied to vintage 2013. A great deal has changed in winemaking over the past 110 years but the fundamental basics remain the same, grow grapes, crush grapes, ferment grape juice, fuss over and keep fingers crossed.
Spanning 1903 and 2013 is the Oliver family of the McLaren Vale Taranga and Whitehill properties. William and Elizabeth Oliver settled in the district in 1841, with the fifth and six generations still running the vineyard along with cropping and grazing enterprises.
Although William planted the first vines and is thought to be one, if not the first, to make wine surplus to family requirements (resulting in enough to sell) the family stopped making wine on a commercial basis preferring to sell grapes instead.
The return to winemaking came in 1994. The current public face of the family is Corrina Wright, sixth generation but first winemaker, who took over winemaking in 2000. Corrina is well educated and apart from winemaking sits on several boards and committees helping guide the future of South Australian wine. Apart from the usual regional varieties of Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon there are a couple of interesting Italian white varieties grown.
Oliver’s Taranga Vineyards Vermentino 2012:
Italian vermentino (known as Rolle in France) makes a lightly perfumed somewhat spicy style of wine lower in alcohol than its richer Australian cousin. Sometimes the so-called new varieties are more show than substance because the wine media go all wanky over them. Being new does not automatically equate to being good. I think vermentino has a good future in Australia and at this early stage it’s looking as if the McLaren Vale is a place well suited to it (Fox Creek also makes a good one). This is a lovely wine that has been superbly crafted. It’s textual with a slightly spicy flavor - 94 points and worth the $24.
Oliver’s Taranga Vineyards Fiano 2012:
Fiano is an incredibly old variety with the first mention of the name in the 13th century. Tasting this wine alongside the vermentino raises the question: is fiano also suitable for cultivation in Australia? Australia is a big place, so to be more specific: is fiano suitable for cultivation in the McLaren Vale? I find this a sharper wine with more edge. Personally, I prefer the vermentino. This still rates highly at 93 points but I now know what I would spend my $24 on. (Coriole also makes a McLaren Vale Fiano)
Yangarra Estate was first planted with vines in 1946 but Viognier is a recent addiction. Since 2000 it’s been an off-shoot of the American wine producer Kendal Jackson. The winemaker is Peter Fraser with Michael Lane looking after viticulture.
Yangarra Estate Viognier 2011:
There appears no doubt viognier is French in origin it is said to be a half sibling to syrah (shiraz) and it certainly adds a something extra when a little is blended in with the robust red. In Australia the Yalumba Wine Company has done a great deal of research and work on the variety and has the widest range. The winemaker notes say it’s different in style to most Australian Viognier’s as it’s not as rich with overt dried apricot character. OK I can go along with that but it’s not skinny and dull either, its rather mature in certain ways; reminds me of the ever accommodating older lass that guided me through my callow youth. It’s a wine that can teach a lesson or three (bless her), new tastes, different textures and an experience not to be missed - 93 points and well worth its $25
Yangarra Estate Roussanne 2011:
Roussanne is one of the white grapes of the Rhone Valley where it is often blended with Marsanne. In the past it’s been a co-star but is now moving into a solo part. There is a smell to Roussanne that can be described as slightly unpleasant, there is no richness or overt fruit nuisances. The smell is of the earth, a slight odor of sweet decay, there is also a tang on the palate - in short it’s not an easy wine but one that needs input from the drinker. Taste it and it’s easy to dismiss, taste it with some thought and it becomes a different creature altogether. This is a smart wine, perhaps not to every ones taste, but I give it 92 and think it well worth the $25 price tag.
Tony Keys
