The d’Arenberg Dozen
Any person with an interest in wine living in Adelaide or surrounds will know the name d’Arenberg. It’s not a local phenomenon either; wine lovers’ across Australia, America the UK and other parts of the world will know the name and love the wines too.
The family behind the d’Arenberg brand are the Osborn’s (not the Ozzie and Sharon Osborn’s) who celebrated the family’s century involvement in the McLaren Vale region in 2012. One of the many celebratory events fourth generation viticulturist and winemaker Chester Osborn was responsible for was the amazing sites project.
In essence Chester released a range of wines from individual sites around the region. In 2013 the amazing sites wines consisted of 12 Shiraz wines from the 2011 vintage each retailing at $100 a bottle. Below are the accompanying notes written by Chester plus the story behind the incredible names along with my review.
It’s worth noting I didn’t obtain Chester’s notes until I had tasted the wines therefore my reviews are independent and not influenced.
2011 The Little Venice Single Vineyard Shiraz
Fourth generation winemaker Chester Osborn was in Venice when this block was purchased. The land nearby has a spring-fed dam providing an abundance of water and inspiring its name.
Chester: Amazingly, this wine is almost polar opposite in style when compared to its direct neighbour, the Fruit Bat. While The Fruit Bat is elegant, bright and red fruited, The Little Venice is darker and more structured. The underlying geologies are the same but it is the shallow brown earth in The Little Venice that creates the distinction.
The nose shows an abundance of dark cherries, liquorice, black olive and just a hint of violet. The palate is very punchy, purple fruits, more liquorice and interesting earthy beetroot characters. The tannins are powdery and mineral almost like very finely crushed and ground stone.
In youth this wine may appear somewhat closed, but will open and round with time, the powdery tannins and punchy fruit ensuring it will be very long lived.
Review: Closed on the nose and somewhat fuller in the mouth than the other wines, it is almost port like. I can only judge what is before me and give it 91 points. Maybe more will come as it ages but at the moment it seems expensive at $100.
2011 The Eight Iron Single Vineyard Shiraz
Shaped like a golf club on a steep south facing block, the vineyard is roughly as wide as a decent hit with an eight iron.
Chester: The Eight Iron sits interestingly in the red and purple fruit spectrum. It appears very bright and lively on the nose with hints of gravel and celery accompanying the fruits. The palate is intensely mineral. There is a real core of graphite like fruit that drives the wine to a focused and long finish. Along the way more red fruits in the form of stewed rhubarb and Satsuma plum support the mouth-watering, ironstone and mineral tannins.
Review: Very soft in all departments but that’s just on the surface. There is much activity underneath, the trouble is it’s still masked by the softness. This wine I would like to taste again in a year or so - I will give it 93 points now but cannot at this stage say if it’s worth the $100 asked, maybe in time.
2011 The Sardanapalian Single Vineyard Shiraz
Sardanapalus was the last king of Nineveh (modern-day Mosul, Iraq) known for his decadence. This wine has excessively luxurious, sensual fruit and length, making it a wine fit for a king.
Chester: The influence of the two sands found at the surface of this vineyard, Pirramimma Sandstone and Maslin Sand, have a profound effect. The resulting wine has a nose that is fruity and spicy, an endearing mix of mulberry, pepper, plums, red capsicum skin, baking spice and fennel.
The palate exhibits more of the same with additional notes of cherry, liquorice and fennel. There is also an intriguing modelling clay character, undoubtedly stemming from the sandy clay beneath. The mouthfeel is peppery and silky with a very long fruit mineral finish.
Review: There is no doubting it is good wine, well sourced and well made, but it didn’t excite as much as some of the others in this collection did. One should make the point that minute aspects of each of the wines are important, this very good wine commands 93 points, perhaps with more to come as it ages, pushing price at $100 I think.
2011 Tyche’s Mustard Single Vineyard Shiraz
Tyche, the goddess of luck and fortune, has looked over this vineyard. The initial site featured six land holdings, five unsuitable for grape growing were sold and the profits paid for the vines. Luck would have it that from an early age these vines have produced exceptional fruit.
Chester: Tyche's Mustard is a great example of soil to glass transfer. The nose displays a spicy herbal lift, reminiscent of mustard perhaps? This is the same odour we smell as we walk through this vineyard with its abundance of mustard weed. There is also an alluring dark chocolate note, laced with hints of liquorice and fennel.
The palate is rich and juicy but at the same time crunchy, owing to the fine gritty tannins. Surprisingly, amongst all of this dark fruit we are also able to perceive juicy red fruits and spicy pepper notes. A perfect example of a wine showing sweet and savoury characters abiding in perfect harmony.
Review: The nose is of baked earth with faint plant life in the background something like a paddock on a hot day. The wine was dry all through its journey across the palate yet releasing hints of spice and the earth the grapes came from. A very good wine 93 points, as to the price of $100 a bottle - no I don’t think it worth that much.
2011 The Swinging Malaysian Single Vineyard Shiraz
Purchased in an era of free love, this vineyard has also done its fair share of swinging! First planted to shiraz in the 70s, it was grafted to Riesling, but was returned to its origins in 2001. Imported vineyard posts from Malaysia were trialled here but were too weak and had to be replaced.
Chester: Aptly named, The Swinging Malaysian wine oozes with Asian spice aromatics, cinnamon, clove and anise. There is a closed woodiness to this wine in youth that will continue to open to a mix of red and black fruits.
On the palate the Asian spice is also notable. This is accompanied by fruity red plum and dark cherry notes. Behind all of this is a slight sooty character adding complexity. The tannins while firm are fine and fruity, elevating once again the exotic spice notes.
Review: It is a spicy wine as it was in my tasting note before I read the d’Arenberg notes, however the word swing is also apt because I found it to be all over the place. I couldn’t find clear definition in the wine and when I’m tasting $100 bottles I expect structure. It’s a fair wine and rates an easy 93 points but far too pricy in my opinion.
2011 The Blind Tiger Single Vineyard Shiraz
This vineyard was planted in the 1920s, a time of speakeasy clubs like ‘The Blind Tiger’ that thrived during prohibition. Thankfully those times have passed but other legacies, like this vineyard, remain.
Chester: A complete wine in many ways. The deep Maslin Sands contribute an impressive mixed flowery bouquet, roses and violets, along with lovely spice notes. The sootiness and complexity can be attributed to the very old age of the vines. Wines from these soils can tend to be very elegant, but these particular vines have given us a wine of great opulence and seamless, mouth coating tannins. While the tannins are bountiful, they are accompanied by beautifully, fragrant fruits that together create a gratifyingly long finish. All in all, a bright wine with a lovely element of earth and soot.
Review: The nose is soft, by that I mean one has to search and concentrate, and when the aromas come they arrive slowly and faintly and are rather lovely. It remains elegant in the mouth but has pure breading behind the intimae fragile beauty. I’m not sure how it will develop but it will be interesting o see. 94 points at this stage, I think pushing price at $100 but it may develop further and then be worth it.
2011 The Other Side Single Vineyard Shiraz
Planted in 1916, this vineyard is located on the opposite side of the winery to the family homestead and is logically referred to as on ‘the other side’.
Chester: To borrow lyrics from Lou Reed, tasting the Other Side is to take a walk on the wild side. Immediately on the nose we are struck by sooty, meaty and woody characters. These are aromas that we see time and time again in this wine and can only be attributed to the very old age of the vines (fast approaching their 100th birthday!)
The palate gives insight into how The Other Side is likely to evolve. Among the brooding savoury characters we find sweet purple fruits, dark chocolate and liquorice. The structure of the wine is firm and drying. We are undoubtedly looking at a wine that will reward those with patience.
Review: White pepper all the way on the nose and in the form of spice across the palate, it’s a very different wine, I like it a lot though others may not. As with the rest it’s a well-crafted 94 points, pricy as are they all, but will possibly be worth it. I would like to see this in years to come to revaluate.
2011 The Fruit Bat Single Vineyard Shiraz
An old shearing shed on the property is home to tiny fruit bats that live in the old hessian wool sacks. The vineyard is watched over by fourth generation winemaker Chester Osborn, depicted on the front label as a wild pixie hanging ‘bat-like’ from the distinctive red stripe.
Chester: Despite being located on Blanche Point formation, the overlying sandy soils have a profound effect on this wine, making it more elegant and aromatic than would otherwise be expected. Lovely, bright, peppery, red fruits on the nose, with a hint of dark spiced plum. The palate is also bright, highlighted by red jubey characters and accompanied by notes of fennel and again, pepper. Although one of the more elegant of the Amazing Sites wines, the lovely fruity, mineral tannin adds generosity and a velvet-like mouthfeel, supported by lingering sweet and savoury fruit flavours.
Review: Pepper and spice and all things nice, this grabbed my attention! It’s balanced, yet has that wild edge to it - like a charming rouge perhaps? 95 points and, as it still has more points to come, yes it may well be worth its $100 in time.
2011 The Piceous Lodestar Shiraz Single Vineyard Shiraz
The lodestar is a navigational direction star, something to aim toward, or a point of reference. The piceous, pitch black nature of this wine is what the world aims for in a great shiraz.
Chester: The wine is typically one of the bigger, earthier wines from the Osborn vineyards. The nose is extremely complex, displaying dark fruits, forest floor, game, earth and meaty characters. Although serious by nature, this hedonistic bouquet is delightfully fragrant and the result is both striking and enticing. All of those exotic notes are again found on the palate, accompanied by lavish dark and red fruits laced with gratifying anise and fennel spice notes. As the wine opens and develops, a dark chocolate character can also be detected. The tannins are earthy and while reasonably imposing in youth will round out later in life as the mineral fruit continues to open up and express itself.
Review: The taste of the earth, the power of the land, the vines are planted in the life source for all we are. This is wonderful wine full of terroir expression. 95 points now and more to come. It bears its $100 price tag well.
2011 The Vociferate Dipsomaniac Single Vineyard Shiraz
Fourth generation winemaker Chester Osborn believes the wine from this vineyard is so good it can cause people to develop a mild case of Dipsomania (look it up) and demand ‘vociferously’ for another bottle.
Chester: There is a lovely violet spectrum to the nose and an intense aniseed lift. More layers of red fruit, leafy notes, dark ash and game are also detectable. The palate is unapologetically structured in youth, a quality derived from the underlying chalk in the soil. The flavour profile includes raspberry and mulberry and the accompanying leaves from these trees. These beautiful purple fruits are enhanced by more earthy and savoury characters along with striking spicy, aniseed notes. The tannins add a lovely cedar like edge to the wine, which along with the red fruit and soot on the finish will leave you salivating.
Review: Wow! This wine enters with a statement; it took me a little by surprise as it is more aggressive than the others, but it settles and gives some amazing flavours. 95 points with more to come and worth the $100.
2011 The Amaranthine Single Vineyard Shiraz
Amaranthine; to an artist it is a deep purple-red on his palette; to the wordsmith, eternally beautiful and unfading or everlasting; to fourth generation winemaker Chester Osborn, it is a wine that encapsulates both - a deep red beauty that’s appeal will last a lifetime.
Chester: If you are seeking a wine of intriguing complexity that evolves evocatively in the glass, look no further than The Amaranthine. With each subsequent sniff we journey further and further from where we started. Characters range from milk chocolate, mulberries and plums through to cinnamon, nutmeg and sandalwood.
The palate is similarly complex, old vine wood and hazelnut interspersed with red and purple fruits, leather and muscatels. A favourite amongst the winemakers, the quality of The Amaranthine is evidenced by the fact that you may happily linger on the bouquet of this wine, returning to inhale its exotic aromas time and time again before realising that you are yet to take a sip… as should be the case with all fine wine.
Review: The nose is very attractive. It’s of the earth, dark damp and rich, the flavours across the palate are in the same vein, earthy and very adult. This wine really impressed earning 96 points and, yes, worth the $100 asked.
2011 Shipsters' Rapture Single Vineyard Shiraz
Shipsters’ Rapture is named in honour of Henry Shipster who owned the vineyard before the Osborns. The Shipsters are said to have delighted in their small plot of land, lovingly planting it to vines in the late 1800s.
Chester: Many believe The Shipsters’ Rapture is in some ways the essence of d'Arenberg - a highly complex bouquet of fennel, pepper and dark fruits. The true strengths of this wine however are the soil, silage like notes that are a direct expression of the loam over limestone in the vineyard. Similar flavours are evident on the palate, the dark fruits expressing themselves in the form of blackberry and chocolate. The finish is spicy and mineral giving an overall feeling of vibrancy.
Review: This is all old leather and earth, roots and just a hint of tooth and claw; Damn it’s good! Very good! 97 points and worth the $100.
Tony Keys
I have been privileged to know three generations of the Tyrrell family, Murray (deceased), current head of the clan Bruce, and his son Chris now involved in the business. There are other family members also involved, Chris’s sister Jane and brother John, but I don’t know them as well.
Murray and Bruce have both gotten into hot water over the past 50 years for expressing forthright views. Often they have made me smile, even laugh, as the Tyrrell's voice what others only think and never say. They are a fine family, widely respected among the wine community and consumers alike.
Their latest brand release is the re-branding and extension of the original Lost Block range. The Lost Block story stems back to a vintage misadventure in 1993 when semillon grapes on a small vineyard block were inadvertently forgotten about at harvest time. After realising the oversight, the ‘lost’ Semillon was eventually picked and Chief Winemaker, Andrew Spinaze created a more approachable, softer style than the classic aged Hunter Semillon.
Sales and Marketing Manager, Mike Cutrupi states, “We decided to move the brand from the more traditional execution in packaging to something that graphically embraces the story of the ‘Lost Block’, with the introduction of a caricature of the vineyard manager, set in a number of winery and vineyard situations, looking for the Lost Block.”
The labels are fun and the wines are as follows. Their full retail price is around $18.
Tyrrell’s ‘Lost Block’ Hunter Valley Semillon 2013:
For a Hunter semillon that is this young it’s quite approachable, it still has the bite of young semillon but it’s more a nip than a full on savaging of the palate. 89 points now; it will gather a couple more as it ages a year and then it will be worth the money.
Tyrrell’s ‘Lost Block’ Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2013:
It’s of a style I’m not fond of, but putting that aspect aside and marking as it deserves it’s 91 points and worth the money asked. It’s a wine that lovers of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc should flock to in droves.
Tyrrell’s ‘Lost Block’ Hunter Valley Chardonnay:
A sound wine, definitely chardonnay, it is easy to drink and enjoyable. Need more be said? 91 points, although there is a lot of good chardonnay around at this price so it might not be the best value on the shelf; it won’t be the worst, however.
Tyrrell’s ‘Lost Block’ Limestone Coast Merlot 2012:
This wine has more bite than most merlots and that made it enjoyable when taken to the table. A very sound wine: 91 points and worth the money.
Tyrrell’s ‘Lost Block’ McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2012:
Being picky as I am, I could have done with a touch more edge rather than the roundness this displayed, but that is just me. As a McLaren Vale Cabernet it was good drinking; 92 points and definitely worth its price.
Tyrrell’s ‘Lost Block’ Heathcote Shiraz 2012:
I’ve had better, but it’s not the quality of this wine that was the problem, rather it seemed unsettled at time of tasting. I give it 88 but feel it may be worth more, perhaps a poor bottle for other reasons.
Tony Keys
The Burge family can be traced back 5 generations to John Burge and his wife Eliza who arrived in Australia after making the trip from England in 1855. Today, after following in the footsteps of his forefathers, Grant Burge continues the winemaking traditions of his family.
The Grant Burge label was not actually founded until 1988 despite its long heritage. Today, Burge grows his grapes at several locations in both the Eden and Barossa Valleys. Some of his vines are almost 100 years old, such as the plantings at the Filsell Vineyard, which were set in the 1920s. Grant Burge now has no less than 18 locations where they grow their grapes, stretching from Tanunda to Williamstown, the concentration of which is in the vicinity of Lyndoch.
Grant Burge now canvasses two cellar doors, both local to the township of Tanunda. The first is Illapara right in the township, and the second, Krondorf, sits about 2 kilometres out of town at the top of Krondorf road.
Grant’s philosophy for wine making is all about matching the right varietals with the right soils and locations, then managing the crops to achieve low to moderate yields of fruit that are a premium quality; the foundation for “exceptional wines”.
The following bottle reviews have been conducted by Tony Keys.
Paul Rodda
Grant Burge ‘Thorn’ Eden Valley Riesling 2012:
Already showing great promise, there are classic, light, kerosene characters on the nose with lots of floral and lime flavours unfurling as the wine travels across the palate. The acid is long limbed and still slightly unbalanced but it will settle. 92 points now with more to come as it ages, an OK price at $24.
Grant Burge ‘East Argyle’ Adelaide Hills Pinot Gris 2012:
There’s not a lot on nose or palate but there are certainly hints of good wine waiting to emerge. At this stage it’s a reasonable glass of wine. 89 points, but the $24 price tag is high. I do believe that will change by the end of 2013 as the parts come together; a wine for Christmas so keep it in mind.
Grant Burge ‘Summers’ South Australia Chardonnay 2012:
The fruit is from the Adelaide Hills and Eden Valley so all cool climate. A defined Chardonnay nose puts the taster on the right track straight away. There is slight disappointment as oak kicks in on the palate but that will merge with acid and fruit and this will turn into a very smart wine. 92 now, more to come. The $27 price is high for the current drinking but it will become more aligned as the wine develops.
Grant Burge ‘Kraft’ Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2012:
This wine is all it should be – clean, slight herbaceous flavour that says it’s Sauvignon Blanc. It has good length and a fine finish. I have to give it 93, but also point out there is a lot of Sauvignon Blanc out there at $24 and below.
Grant Burge “Meshach” Barossa Shiraz 2008:
One cannot but be overpowered with the intensity of this wine. Recalling previous vintages I often commented on the oak. Not this wine, it’s doing what it should, sitting in the background and supporting. I’m lost for words because I don’t want to go into overdrive, I haven’t tasted the 2008 Penfolds Grange but I should think this would give it a challenge. $180 is a lot of money but this has a very long life ahead and it’s a wine all Australia can be proud of. 98 points.
Grant Burge ‘Filsell’ Barossa Shiraz 2011:
Here’s an oxymoron, a ‘pleasantly stinky’ nose. It’s quite tight in the mouth and needs more time but still passable drinking. At the moment, 91 points. I think it expensive at $50.
Grant Burge ‘Corryton Park’ Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon 2011:
For me this is chocolate all the way, rich and dark with a hint of truffle. I know, that’s nonsense wine speak, but try this very tasty gear. 94 points and worth its $50.
Grant Burge ‘Balthazar’ Barossa Shiraz 2010:
Balthazar, one of the three wise men who followed the star, bearing gifts to the infant Jesus and also gave his name to a 16 bottle size of Champagne. Quite a pedigree, although any short research will find Balthazar’s origins are not that defined. As indeed is this wine. Yes it is Shiraz and yes it has Barossa character, but that is just on the surface. Underneath there is a world of mystery that is awaiting the taster’s exploration. Go to it as it’s worth the journey and worth the $50 asked. 95 points.
Tony Keys
There are some wines that have fallen into the hands of the marketeers and they believe a new label and some old tosh on the origin of the name will fool consumers into paying the price asked.
They do it with smoke and mirrors; what one thinks they see is not in fact what is real, but rather what the manipulator wants one to see. The reviews below cover wines that purport to offer value but, in my opinion, don’t and a few that others that, again in my opinion, do.
Tryst by Nepenthe Adelaide Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon 2012:
Marketing wine is needed but on occasion it can destroy a brand. I fear this is what Australian Vintage has done to Nepenthe Tryst.
They have changed the label to one that is directly stencilled or lasered on to the bottle. Labels are hard to define, with each and everyone’s taste being different. My personal view on this one is that it’s extremely tacky and downmarket. I find myself unsettled by the downgrading of the name Nepenthe. The wine is now called Tryst by Nepenthe, Tryst being in a font three times the size of Nepenthe. A vast swathe of the front has been turned over to the etymology of tryst.
As to the wine it’s fair but nothing outstanding, 89 points and at $17 there are plenty more out there that are more defined in all aspects.
Tryst by Nepenthe Adelaide Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2012:
A better wine than the red with plenty of youthful zip. In truth it is a bit too much for me, but that is personal, and I’m sure others will enjoy it more; 90 points and as with the red there are plenty of others around at $17.
Peter Lehmann “Art & Soul” Barossa Shiraz Grenache 2011:
Tasted April 2013 and thus far the worst wine of the year, over confected lolly water that I found hard to taste and impossible to drink; 83 points and not worth the $14 asked.
Peter Lehmann “Art & Soul” Barossa Shiraz Cabernet 2011:
Marginally better than the Shiraz Grenache blend I’m sure I reviewed this range last year and found very acceptable wines, this year it appears to have gone to places where wine should not go; 84 and over priced at $14.
Peter Lehmann “Art & Soul” Barossa Cabernet Merlot 2011:
Fruit juice nose and juicy in the mouth, this wine passes across the palate leaving no great impression other than fruit squash. A bit of alcohol kicks in after its swallowed. I’m sure it will find an audience, but unfortunately not in this household; 84 points and $14 is more than I would want to pay. How very disappointed I was with the 3 Peter Lehman wines. All the good that Lehman has built up over the years put at risk, it’s such a shame.
Yalumba ‘Y series’ South Australia Cabernet Sauvignon 2011:
Dark fruit on the nose with that hint of dust that cabernet sauvignon often has, easy in the mouth a even journey and good sound finish 90 points and value at $15
Yalumba ‘Y series’ South Australia Merlot 2011:
As is well known I’m not a great lover of merlot but this had enough interest in its complexity to keep me interested, after the tasting I had a glass to drink and have to admit I enjoyed it, 90 points and worth $15
Yalumba ‘Y series’ South Australia (un wooded) Chardonnay 2012:
Well, well a chardonnay without oak that is good, they are rare. Breaking it down in tasting terms it’s overly impressive but it comes together at the end and is a good glass of wine, a case of the whole being better than the parts 91 points and value at $15
Priced at $15 the 3 wines from Yalumba offer far better value than the Peter Lehmann offering.
De Bortoli Sacred Hill Shiraz 2012:
Rarely receiving many De Bortoli samples I smiled when this wine turned up in the post. A bottle from their cheapest brand, $7.50 but can be found at $5 on special, the media release said it all - James Halliday had awarded this wine 89 points which is a very good mark for a wine at this price level. It would be nice to say that James got it wrong but he didn’t. It’s a really enjoyable wine and I can’t dismiss his score of 89, in fact I go one higher at 90. Its origin, listed as ‘Australia’, is vague on the label but the notes pin it to Riverina.
Tony Keys
Fox Creek of the Mclaren Vale have a proud history in wine making. In this review, Tony Keys takes on one of their best - the Reserve Shiraz. One of the flagship wines for Fox Creek, the Reserve Shiraz has recieved several accolades this year including:
- Australia Special Prize & Citadelles Trophy, Les Citadelles du Vin 2013
- Great Gold Medal (between 95 & 100 points) International Wine Guide, Spain 2013
- Gold Medal, Les Citadelles du Vin 2013
- 5 Stars, Winestate Magazine World’s Greatest Shiraz Challenge Sept/Oct 2013
Fox Creek are also great supporters of the arts in South Australia, including the Principle Partner of The Barefoot Review. Prejudices aside this is an amazing shiraz, so be sure to support the winery that supports the arts and treat yourself to a bottle of this amazing wine.
Paul Rodda
 |
Fox Creek ‘Reserve’ McLaren Vale Shiraz 2011: The nose is deep, keep sniffing, keep discovering, it’s hard to pin any one smell down but they are all dark. Take it into the mouth and the wine immediately settles, it’s a sensation of it checking the taster out rather than the other way around. An expectation not unlike at the start of a big dipper ride is apparent. This ride is slow and just as exhilarating, the flavours come in waves and keep on coming. It’s quite a drink, still youthful and that keeps a couple of points off its score but still a very fine wine. 96 now and worth the $75 asked. |
Tony Keys