The saying goes, ‘There’s more than one way to skin a cat’, I don’t know about that, but believe me there is more than one way to taste a wine. Reviewing requires lining up a range of wines - say 10 shirazes - and comparing them. Optimally the wine reviewed can be hidden in bags so the taster is not influenced by the maker. This is the ideal but it’s not always possible, so often I know the wine I taste. The important questions are therefore: Am I influenced by the label? Do I know the maker? Is he/she a friend that I am unlikely to say a bad word against? It’s a possibility and I accept all criticisms.
Many believe the role of wine as an accompaniment to food is an important characteristic. I may disappoint here, but, simply matching food to wine is (in my opinion) such rubbish. It must be about the whole: good food, top wine and fun company is the essence. As soon as some boring bugger starts on about the merits of a certain wine with this or that dish, I am off!
Below is a range of wines that I took to my mate Norm’s birthday lunch. The wines were tasted beforehand and these notes were already written, but the full enjoyment was in the drinking of them with good friends and good food, intelligent conversation and heaps of fun.
Think on it and enjoy your wine; don’t waffle on about it.
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Angullong Orange Region Chardonnay 2011: The wine looks good in the glass (green/lemon), it is a clean and defined chardonnay on the nose, and has a simple, pure, beautiful chardonnay character from the lips and right across the palate. At just $17 a bottle, grab a case and don’t tell your friends. 94 points. |
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Angullong ‘The Pretender’ Central Rages Savagnin 2012: Savagnin is slowly moving across various Australian regions and, from what I have tasted, it is finding a home in many of them. This is just the third release from Angullong and the vines still need more age on them to give a fuller texture to the finished wine. Meanwhile, this has a very slight sherbet lemon fizz and taste as it travels across the palate, which I find enchanting. It ends well and has good aftertaste. 93 points and worth the $22 asked. |
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Chapel Hill McLaren Vale ‘Bush Vine’ Grenache 2011: Very earthy on the nose this wine really fits the description “forest floor” that wine writers are fond of; slightly stinky is a cruder way of putting it. It enters with the same bite as the nose suggests; rather like the difference between a straight cheese and a blue vein. Many flavours reveal themselves but all are on the dark side. It is a lovely wine, but one for grown-up tastes. 94 points and I think well worth its $35. |
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Caillard Barossa Valley Mataro 2011: Andrew Caillard starts his description: “Fragrant, pure and sinuous…” I can go with that. I also enjoyed the complexity that went deeper as the length stretched across the palate. It has the textual feel of reaching the finish while part of the wine is yet to start the journey. Moving to pictorial imagery, it brought to mind a long caravan winding its way across a desert of pure white sand. There was a beautiful, bitter plum bite on the very end. 94 points and possibly a couple more to come as it ages. It’s not cheap at $45 but worth it for those who are really into their wine. |
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Grant Burge “Meshach” Barossa Shiraz 2008: One cannot help but be overpowered with the intensity of this wine. Recalling previous vintages, I often commented on the oak, but not with this vintage. The oak is doing what it should - sitting in the background and supporting. I’m lost for words because I don’t want to go into overdrive. I haven’t tasted the 2008 Penfolds Grange but I should think this would give it a challenge. $180 is a lot of money but this has a very long life ahead and it’s a wine with a global standing of which all Australians can be proud. 98 points. |
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Pfeiffer Rutherglen Muscat: Light for muscat, but that’s not an issue. Post tasting, I popped an ice cube in a glass of it and it was lovely. This wine only carries an average four years of age, which accounts for its lightness, but it has been made with skill from quality material. 91 points and worth its $20 (500ml). |
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All Saints Grand Rutherglen Tawny: Incredible, fantastic, out of this world. Take your pick. It’s damn fine wine; and there’s no more to say on the matter. 97 points and well worth $35 (375ml). |
Tony Keys
The really big issue that holds the most danger for the Australian wine industry will be the health lobby and anti-alcohol brigade continuing to gain strength while the wine industry remains ineffectual (hope I’m wrong about that). There is new thinking in the UK that the recommended units are ineffective as hardly anyone can remember them. The new thinking is “two plus two”: no more than two drinks a day and two days a week alcohol free. Maybe the Australian industry should go proactive along these lines rather than weakly say, “we support the recommended daily intake as directed by government”.
One assumes all in the wine industry are in agreement on the idea that drinking alcohol to excess is not good for health and that excessive consumption can contribute to violence and traffic accidents. Reading the ‘Health Statistics for US Adults: National Health Interview Survey 2010’ table we note that 50.9 per cent of American adults (over 18) are classed as regular drinkers. A regular drinker is one who drinks at least 12 drinks a year. One a month and you are a regular; that makes me a full-on lushe, to use the American expression.
Apparently the South African wine Constantia is enjoying a boost due to being mentioned in the second volume of the Shades of Grey trilogy by EL James. It’s a wine that is featured on the menu of a masked ball and people are re-creating the menu, or, if visiting South Africa, turning up at the vineyard. I think this is wonderful news; the vineyard is getting sales and one of the greatest wine styles in the world is gaining better recognition. Will any of this rub off on Australian muscat?
Though the book puts the wine in the setting of a banquet, accompanying sugar-crusted walnut chiffon candied figs, sabayon sauce and maple ice-cream, I think it better sipped from your partner’s navel.
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Running With Bulls Wrattonbully Tempranillo 2012: This red is earthy on the nose and an easy journey across the palate. The real flavour forms in the mouth after the wine is swallowed; the aftertaste is very long and interesting. 93 points and worth its $24. |
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Running With Bulls Barossa Tempranillo 2011: I found the nose dull nose but the wine was richer across the palate, however not as interesting as the Wrattonbully wine. The extra year in age didn’t seem to give much extra flavour. It’s an OK red wine but there are plenty more I would go for at $24. 89 points. |
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Running With Bulls South Australia Vermentino 2011: The more vermentino I taste and drink, the more I’m convinced it really is suited to Australia. As yet, I’m favoring the McLaren Vale as the best region but it’s early days and this could well change. This is a sound wine, well made, with interesting, even intriguing, flavours. 91 points and OK value at $20. |
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Howard Park ‘Abercrombie’ Great Southern Cabernet Sauvignon 2010: As well as making (overall) fantastic wine, Howard Park often sends out older vintages for me to compare with the latest release. It’s a brave move as vines age, winemakers change and therefore so does style. It makes you wonder: are the good old days really that good? This younger wine has a wonderful nose that has a complexity of dark fruit and some form of spice. On the palate it’s incredibly soft on the upper level but, like a swan, there is a lot going on underneath. The notes put the drinking window from now to 2016, which isn’t a long time but I think a correct one. 95 points and pushing Australian price parameters at $110, but on the world stage if you bring Bordeaux and California into the equation it’s a very fair price, and worth it. |
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Howard Park Great Southern Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 1996: This was the older comparison wine sent by Howard Park. The Abercrombie name was added in 2005. This wine has the stinky nose of tobacco, dust and second-hand bookshops that older wines exhibit. It benefits from decanting but not for long, just long enough to air the wine: in the decanter and then in the glass. As with all older wine, the nose changes as it’s consumed and that is a pleasure, soft across the palate with all those old leather characters that one expects. However, the question arises: is it good? Yes it is, but drinking older wine is different from drinking younger wine and the palate and mind set need to adjust accordingly. This has repaid the keeping and shows the worth of putting wine away to mature, but old wine is not for everybody. Points are not an issue and as it’s not for sale and so price doesn’t come into it. |
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Chapel Hill ‘Parson’s Nose’ McLaren Vale Shiraz 2011: This wine is as smooth as a Parsons patter, it lifts the soul and settles the spirit. Tasty stuff. McVale all the way through - 93 points and good value at $16. |
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Chapel Hill ‘The Vicar’ McLaren Vale Shiraz 2009: All velvet and opulence, smooth and very sensuous, wine that glides gracefully across the palate. It’s like a beautiful woman walking across a room: all heads turn towards her and should she smile it lifts the spirit. What interests me is this is a $75 wine and one would assume it would age 10-plus years, but it seems so together now. The winemaker is Michael Fragos and I asked for his opinion. “I am really excited the way this wine has grown into its frame and is building layers of complexity, which is exactly the reason we decided to release the 2010 Vicar before it,” he said “There is still plenty of tannin and flavour in the wine to continue this progression for 10 years plus.” It is a good wine and it will keep but should the top be removed tonight the drinker will be rewarded. 96 points now, more to come as it continues its development, and it really is worth the money. |
Tony Keys
Two postal boxes each containing two bottles of wine from two wine companies arrive on the same day. Both are new brands to market. Expressions made by McGuigan (Australian Vintage) and Echo Beach from Tyrrell’s.
They are both concept wines produced to meet fashion and attract a certain type of consumer. In the accompanying notes McGuigan say, “the target for these wines are females aged 25 to 44 years old who like to consume wine socially.” The Echo Beach promo points out, “the fresh, modern packaging reflects the vibrancy of the wines in the bottle and the contemporary nature of the blends.” I will also review a pair of Shingleback wines from the McLaren vale to round out my review of ‘pairs’.
The Expressions are from Langhorne Creek and Adelaide Hills and the Echo Beach wines are from Margaret River. The labels are light, attractive and easy on the eye. The price is $19 for Echo Beach and $17 for Expressions.
It’s the price bracket producers want to be in; there are profits in this sector, enough to spread around, which also means a fair price for the grower. The question is, are the wines worth it?
It is a difficult question simply because there is so much good value wine around. A rough count reveals Dan Murphy’s stocks just over 1000 wines retailing under $10 and around 2000 retailing between $10 and $20.
If the Australian wine industry is to profitably grow we really need to see many less wines on the retail shelf under $10; the other side of the coin is, of course, the consumer wants to see more. Not that they want rubbish - but the past few years of oversupply have spoilt them and they have become used to getting $10 and over wines, for under $10.
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McGuigan ‘Expressions’ Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2012: This wine is aromatic but not as pungent as many New Zealand wines that really shoot up the nose then get the jack-hammer out to drill between the eyes from the inside. It is a soft and fragrant drop, but no more than a pleasant wine, receiving 89 points. To be honest I would spend my $17 elsewhere. |
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McGuigan ‘Expressions’ Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2012: For me this wine is merely the red version of the white above. Again it is soft and pleasant, but again it only receives 89 points and again I would spend my $17 elsewhere. |
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Echo Beach Margaret River Cabernet Merlot 2011: This wine has the same soft, fruity construction as the Langhorne Creek Shiraz. There is similarities, and yet the grape varieties are different and the regions thousands of kilometres apart. I score this wine 90 points, but I would still prefer to spend my $19 elsewhere. |
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Echo Beach Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2012: Of the wines tasted in this review, this one has an individuality that really reflects the style of the region. A very enjoyable wine - the Sauvignon Blanc and the Semillon varietals merge wonderfully, and add another dimension to the wine. I score it 94 points and thing is it definitely worth the $19 bottle price. |
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Shingleback McLaren Vale Red Knot Chardonnay 2012 and Shingleback McLaren Vale Red Grenache-Shiraz-Mourvèdre 2012: It may seem strange to deal with a pair of wines rather than review them individually; even more so when one is red the other white – but bear with me. Both of these bottles are from the 2012 vintage and arrived, for me to review, as a pair. I tasted them as a pair and then took them to the table together, so treated them as a pair for the evening. They are a fine matching couple. Nothing upsetting from either and scoring an easy 92. Maybe one more point as they mature slightly. Both wines are fantastic value at less than $15. |
Tony Keys
“At the present time the vintage is in full swing throughout South Australia. Great wagon loads of grapes are arriving at the wineries, the elevators are rattling the fruit up to the crushers, and the ‘must’ is rushing down by means of gravitation to the immense tanks below…”
The above is an extract from, ‘The South Australian Vintage 1903’ by Ernest Whitington and published in The Register, yet it can be applied to vintage 2013. A great deal has changed in winemaking over the past 110 years but the fundamental basics remain the same, grow grapes, crush grapes, ferment grape juice, fuss over and keep fingers crossed.
Spanning 1903 and 2013 is the Oliver family of the McLaren Vale Taranga and Whitehill properties. William and Elizabeth Oliver settled in the district in 1841, with the fifth and six generations still running the vineyard along with cropping and grazing enterprises.
Although William planted the first vines and is thought to be one, if not the first, to make wine surplus to family requirements (resulting in enough to sell) the family stopped making wine on a commercial basis preferring to sell grapes instead.
The return to winemaking came in 1994. The current public face of the family is Corrina Wright, sixth generation but first winemaker, who took over winemaking in 2000. Corrina is well educated and apart from winemaking sits on several boards and committees helping guide the future of South Australian wine. Apart from the usual regional varieties of Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon there are a couple of interesting Italian white varieties grown.
Oliver’s Taranga Vineyards Vermentino 2012:
Italian vermentino (known as Rolle in France) makes a lightly perfumed somewhat spicy style of wine lower in alcohol than its richer Australian cousin. Sometimes the so-called new varieties are more show than substance because the wine media go all wanky over them. Being new does not automatically equate to being good. I think vermentino has a good future in Australia and at this early stage it’s looking as if the McLaren Vale is a place well suited to it (Fox Creek also makes a good one). This is a lovely wine that has been superbly crafted. It’s textual with a slightly spicy flavor - 94 points and worth the $24.
Oliver’s Taranga Vineyards Fiano 2012:
Fiano is an incredibly old variety with the first mention of the name in the 13th century. Tasting this wine alongside the vermentino raises the question: is fiano also suitable for cultivation in Australia? Australia is a big place, so to be more specific: is fiano suitable for cultivation in the McLaren Vale? I find this a sharper wine with more edge. Personally, I prefer the vermentino. This still rates highly at 93 points but I now know what I would spend my $24 on. (Coriole also makes a McLaren Vale Fiano)
Yangarra Estate was first planted with vines in 1946 but Viognier is a recent addiction. Since 2000 it’s been an off-shoot of the American wine producer Kendal Jackson. The winemaker is Peter Fraser with Michael Lane looking after viticulture.
Yangarra Estate Viognier 2011:
There appears no doubt viognier is French in origin it is said to be a half sibling to syrah (shiraz) and it certainly adds a something extra when a little is blended in with the robust red. In Australia the Yalumba Wine Company has done a great deal of research and work on the variety and has the widest range. The winemaker notes say it’s different in style to most Australian Viognier’s as it’s not as rich with overt dried apricot character. OK I can go along with that but it’s not skinny and dull either, its rather mature in certain ways; reminds me of the ever accommodating older lass that guided me through my callow youth. It’s a wine that can teach a lesson or three (bless her), new tastes, different textures and an experience not to be missed - 93 points and well worth its $25
Yangarra Estate Roussanne 2011:
Roussanne is one of the white grapes of the Rhone Valley where it is often blended with Marsanne. In the past it’s been a co-star but is now moving into a solo part. There is a smell to Roussanne that can be described as slightly unpleasant, there is no richness or overt fruit nuisances. The smell is of the earth, a slight odor of sweet decay, there is also a tang on the palate - in short it’s not an easy wine but one that needs input from the drinker. Taste it and it’s easy to dismiss, taste it with some thought and it becomes a different creature altogether. This is a smart wine, perhaps not to every ones taste, but I give it 92 and think it well worth the $25 price tag.
Tony Keys
Based on Tony Keys' reviews Barefoot will provide an up-to-date listing of wines reviewed over $70 per bottle, so that you can make an informed decision when you are at your next function or dinner.
Check back soon to see the list grow with every review!
The list below shows the points awarded, wine name, cellar door price (when reviewed) and the month and year of the review. When a wine shares a score and price point with another, the most recently reviewed goes first.
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Score |
Wine |
Price |
Reviewed |
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97 |
Marchand & Burch Porongurup Chardonnay 2011 |
$73 |
Feb 13 |
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96 |
$75 |
Mar 13 |
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96 |
Cherubino Wilyabrup Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 |
$75 |
Feb 13 |
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95 |
Cherubino Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 |
$75 |
Feb 13 |
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95 |
Glaetzer ‘Amon-Ra’ Barossa Valley Unfiltered Shiraz 2010 |
$100 |
Feb 13 |
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95 |
Howard Park ‘Abercrombie’ Great Southern Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 |
$110 |
Mar 13 |
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94 |
Howard Park ‘Abercrombie’ Western Australia Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 |
$100 |
Feb 13 |
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93 |
Cherubino Great Southern Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 |
$75 |
Feb 13 |
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93 |
Vasse Felix Heytesbury Margaret River 2009 |
$90 |
Feb 13 |
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93 |
Cullen ‘Diana Madeline’ Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 |
$115 |
Feb 13 |
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90 |
Grant Burge ‘Shadrach’ Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 |
$90 |
Feb 13 |
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90 |
Cullen ‘Kevin John’ Margaret River Chardonnay 2010 |
$105 |
Feb 13 |
