The Earl of Leicester

Event Review
Beer Degustation Event

With my ears now finely tuned to Adelaide’s food & beverage grapevine I came across a prime piece of event information whilst at lunch with Paul Smith form the Prancing Pony Brewery. The Beer & Brewer Magazine were holding their annual dinner at the Earl of Leicester in Parkside. The event was to be a degustation including a large selection of drinks held at an establishment well known for their mammoth schnitzels and vast array of beers; my mouth was positively watering at the thought!

The format of the event would have any beer lover chomping at the bit. The evening started with pre-dinner drinks in the upstairs function room. It included 26 different beers and ciders predominantly from our great state of South Australia, but also some interstate and overseas contenders, from Western Australia, Germany, the UK and the US, to attempt to whisk our locally loyal tastebuds away. With an abundance of choices it was difficult to decide what to select. I didn’t make it through the entire list, but special mention must go to those tasted that I would certainly purchase in the future:

Prancing Pony Black Ale (SA)
Brewboys Ace of Spades (SA)
Acme IPA (USA)
Hills Apple Ginger Hybrid Cider (SA)
Vinaceous Forbidden Fruit Pear Cider (WA)

With a fierce hunger mounting, and a 5 course meal waiting, we stumbled downstairs to the restaurant and took our seats. As I browsed the evening’s menu we were greeted by Nathan Carter, of The Earl of Leicester, and David Lipman, Managing Director of Beer & Brewer Magazine. It quickly became evident that the 80 ale enthusiast’s appetites would soon be suppressed by the line-up of delectable dishes; all suitably matched with beers and ciders from participating breweries. The degustation menu read as follows:

Course 1:
Crispy skin pork belly with pulled pork wonton, seared scallop and saffron, apple puree.
Beer: Swell Wheat Belgian Wit 4.5% (SA)
Cider: Hills Apple Cider 5.0% (SA)

Course 2:
Confit duck leg risotto with fresh garden peas and sautéed pancetta.
Beers: Birbeck’s The Captain Australian Mild Ale 2.9% (SA)
James Squire The Chancer Golden Ale 4.5% (NSW)

Course 3:
Sticky BBQ beef rib with stout mash.
Beers: Coopers Celebration Ale 5.2% (SA)
Vale Ale IPA 5.5% (SA)

Course 4:
Individual espresso and dark chocolate tiramisu.
Beers: Prancing Pony Black Ale 6.0% (SA)
Barossa Milk Stout 7.0% (SA)
Southwark Old Stout 7.4% (SA)

Course 5:
Shared cheese platter.
Beers: Brooklyn Silver Anniversary Lager 9% (USA)
Fuller’s Bottle Conditioned 2011 Vintage Ale 8.5% (UK)
Barossa Imperial IPA, 94 IBU 8% (SA)

There was no doubt the menu would keep both kitchen and waiting staff on their toes with the designer degustation.  With Pork Belly as the opening dish, my salivary glands were working overtime before the meal even arrived. Pouring the Adelaide Hills apple cider into the aptly provided champagne flute, the stage was set for a tastebud tantalising evening.

The second course, confit duck risotto, arrived shortly after the delicious Pork Belly and I uncharacteristically reached for the lighter and lesser known of the 2 brews matched with the meal. I chose Birbeck’s The Captain Australian Mild Ale (2.9%) as I needed a small break from some of the heavier beers already consumed earlier in the night. The Mild Ale was a very refreshing and complimented the slight saltiness and unusually porridge like consistency of the risotto.

The BBQ beef rib and stout mash for the 3rd course was melting and moist in its consistency. As I slowly savoured each mouthful I faced the tough decision of choosing between the craft or somewhat more commercial ale. As it happened, my decision was taken away as I got to enjoy the best of both worlds, enjoying the Cooper’s and the Vale ale before the next course was served.

Although dessert isn’t usually my most anticipated course I could hardly pass up an espresso and dark chocolate tiramisu matched with Prancing Pony Black Ale, Barossa Milk Stout and a Southwark Old Stout. Reaching straight for my favourite local hills brew, the Prancing Pony dark ale I discovered that it was a perfect accompaniment to the flavour and texture of the tiramisu. Not wanting to miss out on trying another new beverage, I also poured the Barossa Milk Stout and utilised the last scraping’s of my dessert to digest the smooth, sweet serve. It was almost tempting to pour the stout into the glass to flush the remaining traces.

By now the buzz in the room was well and truly alive and the tables, chock-a-block with a wide variety of brews that had become a blurred haze of who’s who and what was what. The final, and possibly most exciting, ales were still to be served. The closing course, a share platter of cheeses, was handed out with the three final ales being placed; these included the limited release Brooklyn Silver Anniversary Lager and the Fuller’s Bottle Conditioned 2011 Vintage Ale. The journey to these ales was a long adventure, but one well worth the wait.

I must commend the Earl of Leicester and The Beer & Brewer Magazine on a well organised and executed event. The overwhelming feeling from others I had spoken to throughout the night was one of enthusiasm and pure enjoyment. They loved the format, the food and of course the paring of a drink that can only be described as ‘God’s Nectar’. The inclusion of guest speakers from 11 local breweries and industry experts throughout the evening kept interest elevated. Being able to listen to, and meet, some truly passionate leaders in the industry was an absolute highlight. The speakers included:

Dr Tim Cooper, Coopers Brewery
Paul Smith, Prancing Pony Brewery
Denham D’Silva, Barossa Valley Brewing
Tobias Kline, The Hills Cider Company
Jeff Wright, McLaren Vale Brewing Co.
Jared Birbeck, Birbeck's Brewing Co.
Tony Jones, West End Brewery
Karli Small, West End Brewery
Dan Wright, Swell Brewing Co.
Brenton Quirini, Empire Liquor
Ryan Davidson, Palais Imports

Michael Weldon, MasterChef

Although this was not my first dining experience at the Earl of Leicester, it was certainly the largest and most mind-blowing. The event will certainly resonate with me for many years to come (notwithstanding some foggy points).

Even though this was an annual event, I must recommend heading to the Parkside pub for one of their super-sized schnitzels, bountiful burgers or other mouth-watering meals. While you are there you can also work your way around their ‘World of Beers’ challenge or simply try their ever evolving line-up of craft beers in the front bar.

Darren Richards

Where: 85 Leicester Street, Parkside, 5063
Trading: Liars Bar: Mon – Sat 12pm – 12am & Sun 12pm – 10pm
Bistro: Mon – Sun 12pm – 2:30pm & 5:30pm – 9pm
Restaurant: Mon – Sun 12pm – 3pm & 6pm – 9pm
Website: http://www.earl.com.au/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/earlofleicesterhotel
Contact: (08) 8271 5700

La Bonne Table

Lunch Review
French/Korean Fusion

In need of a venue for a boys lunch with long term friends Paul and Michael, I was on the lookout for somewhere new and funky in the city. I tapped out some research on the web and came across a restaurant in Wakefield St which had opened in December called La Bonne Table.

Booking in advance I asked if BYO wine was accepted.  I was advised that there would be a corkage charge of $15 which I felt was reasonable compared to many other restaurants. Knowing I would like to take some premium wines (2008 Rockford’s Basket Press Shiraz and a Langmiel Bella Rouge Rosé) I also requested if decanters were available and if I could reserve one for the table. The staff member was more than happy to oblige.

On the day the weather was sweltering outside and I was very hot and parched. I was greeted at the door and immediately taken to the table where the waiter, Tony, noticed my discomfort and wasted no time in serving ice water and offering an ice cold refreshing ale to quench my thirst. As the first mouthful evaporated on my tongue Tony asked if I would like the Rosé refrigerated and the Basket Press chilled just to take the edge off. Although this caught me by surprise I was impressed and more than delighted with first impressions of the service on offer.

As Paul and Michael arrived we ordered a couple more beers so they too could recover from the heat, relax, cool down and examine the menu. The first thing I noticed was that the menu seemed slightly basic, not in its ingenuity, but the number of dishes available. I could have easily chosen from the available lunch menu, but I had spied something which sparked my interest and decided to see if I could stretch the kitchen. I called Tony over and asked if there was any chance I could order from the dinner menu instead and he kindly replied that he would check with the kitchen. Soon after he returned and confirmed our request, so we ordered the following:

Entree share plates:
Charcuterie plate (mixed cured meats and caper berries).
12 natural oysters, sauce mignonette, ½ bloody Mary.
King fish sashimi, lardo ‘au gratin’, chilli vinaigrette, water cress.

For mains:
Michael: Confit salmon, potato colcannon, semi dried tomato, citrus beuree blanc, truffle oil.
Paul: Crumbled pork rib eye, calvados glazed apple, roasted new potato.
Myself: 1/2kg Tomahawk steak (rib eye), whole grain mustard, pickles.

As the entrees were brought to the table, we made way for the large wooden charcuterie board and two plates of seafood. Everything looked extremely fresh and appetising. The oysters were a tad small but it was consistent for the time of the year. I started with an oyster and a dash of bloody Mary sauce and instantly the temperature outside suddenly burst into my mouth with blistering force. The powerful flavour combination of Tabasco and pepper was just too intense and overthrew the oceanic taste of the mollusc - even for a spicy food lover like myself. Wanting to appreciate the true essence of the oyster, I made way for the lime and black pepper (sauce mignonette) option before having another crack at the liquid inferno.

Moving onto the king fish sashimi I was excited to be eating one of my favourite fish - the steak of the sea. Unfortunately the flavour didn’t live up to expectation. The dish had a bland texture and there was no feeling of the ‘deep blue sea dancing on my tongue’. I asked the waiter, Tony, over and we shared our feedback on the dish. In no time at all Tony whizzed it away and returned to offer his sincere apologies and notify us that the dish would be at no charge.  Following closely behind Tony was head chef and owner, Kim to offer his apologies and feedback on the dish. Not only is this rare but it is almost unheard of and I must say I was overwhelmed that he was willing to discuss the dish and provide an explanation without making excuses or pointing blame.

Our attention shifted to the charcuterie plate whilst conversation dwelled on the outstanding service and sheer compassion of the staff. Nearing the end of the cured meaty goodness, we were once again delivered a surprise from the kitchen with a second plate of king fish sashimi. It was explained that the usual ‘lardo au gratin’ technique of ‘flaming the fat’ may have in this case somewhat diminished the subtle fish flavour. To our absolute delight they were completely correct, the expectations we had of the first dish were now alive in the second.

As the empty plates were cleared, the decanted Basket Press was brought over to the table in readiness for the main dishes. After a perfect breather between courses, the mains made their entry. My anticipation for the arrival of my ½ kg Tomahawk rib eye steak was instantly dashed when it landed on the table in front of me. What should have been an awe inspiring dish that makes neighbouring tables envious due to its monstrous dinosaur-like bone, instead brought on a tearful sigh. Where was the ginormous rib bone that should be overhanging the plate and poking my neighbour in the arm? Unfortunately it had been chopped off with a cleaver. Nevertheless, I made my first incision and thankfully the knife glided through the seared bovine flesh like butter and it melted in my mouth – the taste and quality of the Tomahawk rib eye freed my mind of earlier concerns.

Both Michael and Paul offered tastings of their dishes and as hard as it was to draw myself away from the steak I could see from their expressions that they too were more than satisfied with their selections. Being a great lover of both salmon and swine I gracefully parted with a portion of my rib eye in exchange. I was not disappointed with the trade either as both of their dishes were cooked to perfection. The salmon was medium with a perfect pinkish hue layered through the centre and the succulent pork was well accompanied by glazed apple pieces.

I was absolutely floored by the lengths the staff and chef had gone to. I am the first to admit that I can be overly critical, but I also provide recognition where it is due. On this occasion sending a glass of the Basket Press to the kitchen for the chef and one to Tony for his service along with a healthy tip at the settlement of the bill seemed hardly enough. We made sure that our exit wasn’t too swift and made our way to the counter to thank all the staff for the food, service and understanding of our constructive criticism.

It is due to restaurants, staff and chefs like we encountered at La Bonne Table that I have such a passion for the industry and writing my findings. I commend the whole team on providing an outstanding dining experience. I will most definitely be revisiting this urbanised warehouse very soon with more guests to share the experience. I recommend you do too.

Darren Richards

Average Menu Pricing
Salad $14.00 - $17.00
Entree $15.00 - $24.00
Main $25.00 - $27.00
Dessert $13.00 - $15.00
Cheese 2 choices - $17.00, 3 choices - $24.00, 4 choices - $32.00
(Brunch and Dinner menus also available)

Where: 128 Wakefield St, Adelaide, 5000
Trading: Tuesday to Saturday 11:30am – 3pm, Wednesday - Saturday 6pm – 12pm
Website: facebook.com/pages/La-Bonne-Table
Contact: (08) 8223 2487
Email: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Public CBD

Dinner Review.
Modern Australian/Mediterranean.

After attending the official opening of the funky new Franklin St establishment called Public and tasting an eclectic spread of the bar menu, I was eager to head back and dive into their more fanciful fare from what is labelled the ‘surprise dinner’ menu. Head Chef and Electrolux Australia’s 2012 Young Chef of the Year, Stewart Wesson, recreates a new and exciting menu each week to entice punters in. Unlike most restaurants that have a static or seasonal menu, this allows Stewart’s creativity to shine and keeps customer’s tastebuds savouring new delights.

Wandering into the restaurant, I took in the clean flair of the decor which has a refreshing style throughout the cafe, bar and restaurant areas. The owner greeted me and asked Alex to escort me to the table. Accompanying me for the evening was Michael, winner of a competition from my Facebook food blog: McFuzzlebutt’s Manchen.

Taking my seat at the table I was asked if I would like my wine to be opened to breathe; I requested it be decanted. Knowing that I wouldn’t be pouring any for at least 30 minutes, it would allow the wine to open up. Not knowing what to expect from the menu, I brought a Fox Creek 2008 Reserve Merlot which would be a great all-rounder for seafood, white meat or red meat due to its mellower flavours compared to a Shiraz or Cabernet Sauvignon.

It was a relatively warm day so we decided to start with a refreshing ale to cleanse our palates. Looking over the drinks menu, I was a little disappointed at the lack of craft beers. With an ever-growing microbrewery industry across Australia I enjoy trying, and supporting, the more artisan style beers – perhaps there is an opportunity here to diversify on the commercial choices currently offered.

With 3 entree, 5 main and 2 dessert options on the evenings menu, you would think that the decision making process would be swift, however all of the options offered tantalising ingredients and included local SA produce which positively stilted our momentum. Since both Michael and I were struggling to choose we agreed on halving our meal choices to ward off any food envy.  Being a curious and finicky eater I asked Alex where the octopus was from and if it was fresh, along with what cut and size the fillet of steak was. Unfortunately it was only Alex’s first week but she was only too happy to find out and scurried off to the kitchen to retrieve all answers in an efficient manner.

For entree we ordered the following:
Michael: Heirloom tomatoes, basil pesto, bocconcini and dried olive
Myself: Braised Local Octopus, apple and aioli (fresh Kangaroo Island octopus)

For mains we ordered the following:
Michael: SA Angus beef fillet, butter poached Moreton Bay bug tail and caramelised onion (250g grilled eye fillet)
Myself: Murray Valley pork cutlet, braised cabbage, pancetta and apple
Sides: Broccolini and a Public Slaw.

When the entrees were presented we could immediately tell that we were in for a treat. The heirloom tomato assortment looked stunning and the colours danced on the plate. Their freshness and slightly sweet acidity broke through the soft bocconcini and earthy bitterness of the crunchy dried olive creating a unified marriage on the palate. The braised octopus was wonderfully tender with a smoky char-grilled flavour which coupled well with the shaved apple and aioli.

Relaxing with another cold beer Michael noticed a patron in the bar eating mini burgers from their bar menu. Being cheeky at the best of times, I thought I would flutter my eyelashes and politely ask if we could sneak some in before mains. Once again, Alex whooshed away and returned with the answer we were hoping for. Soon after, we received our wagyu burger and pork belly burger with shoestring fries on the side.  The burgers were halved and utter silence came over us as we shovelled the deliciously moist, tender meat filled, soft buttery buns into our mouths. How could anything be better than this?

Wiping the juice from our mouths and fingers, I requested a 15 – 20 minute interlude before mains to allow us to digest the first 2 courses and make room for more. Our glasses were filled with the Fox Creek Merlot and we sat back and relaxed in the softly lit restaurant to soak up the ambiance around us. Alex returned and replaced Michael’s standard knife with a Laguiole steak knife. As I frowned jealously Alex asked if I too would like one, to which I replied “yes” without hesitation.

At almost 20 minutes to the second, we were presented with our mains and our glasses topped again. The pork was well seasoned with a crisp rind crackling - I just wanted to finish it all until I was handed the beef fillet. It was sheer ecstasy; the beef melted away as it hit my tongue and moans replaced words as I cleaned up the plate.

I managed to conjure up enough courage to battle through to dessert and ordered a serve of popcorn pannacotta. Thankfully the portion was just right; the sweetness was well balanced by the salty caramel and it provided a light scrumptious ending to a faultless meal.

Full to the brim and with a smile from ear to ear we were both elated evening’s proceedings. The service was exceptional, even when I made several spontaneous requests in an attempt to throw them off; I was pleasantly rewarded with affirmative answers and actions. With a bright, vibrant, city centre residence, I have no doubt Public will be a favourite amongst the corporate breakfast, lunch and Friday night eaters, drinkers and diners. When you do visit Public be sure to wash your hands, the orange, sage and cedar wood hand wash is so amazing, you’ll want to devour that too.

Darren Richards

Average Menu Pricing
Entree $12.00 - $14.00
Main $26.00 - $34.00
Side Dishes $7.50
Dessert $12.00
(Friday surprise dinner menu changes weekly. Bar and kitchen menus also available)

Where: 12 Franklin St, Adelaide, 5000
Trading: Monday to Thursday 7am – 5pm, Friday 7am – 12am (bookings recommended)
Website: publiccbd.com.au
Contact: (08) 8231 8151

Let Them Eat

Lunch Review.
Vegetarian.

I first came across ‘Let Them Eat’ whilst wandering around The Depot at a Fork On The Road dinner event in early February. It all happened when I stumbled across a Forker whose plate of food captured my senses. I asked where I could find some and was pointed in the direction of a marquee with a reasonably large crowd. As I reached the stand, I noticed that all the food was vegetarian! How could this be, with so many people here?

Being a carnivorous barbarian with an appetite for animal protein, I wasn’t sure if this would suffice, but my eyes and nose ate first and persuaded my tastebuds to participate. I ordered the leek and gruyere tart and a sweet corn and fetta fritter. The fritter was my first earthly indulgence and I was mighty impressed, but as soon as the tart touched my tongue I turned into a babbling mess and struggled to maintain balance on my quivering legs.  The soft velvety sweetness of the leek and gruyere filling layered into the savoury melting crumble of the pastry base was what I imagined the afterlife to be like, not a vegetarian tart!

I rushed back to the stand requesting to speak to the person who had created this heavenly delight and was introduced to the owner Tanya. I introduced myself, whilst trying to regain composure and passed on my gratitude and utter delight with their wares. Passing over my card, I advised that I would be honoured to review their cafe in the near future.

Winding the clock forward one month, it was time to roll up unannounced to Elizabeth/Queen St, Croydon where the Let Them Eat cafe is located. Nestled in amongst a collection of cosmopolitan cafes, the streetscape was lined with outdoor settings and littered with people. My vegetarian aide for lunch was Cathy Forrest Caputo, knowing that an expert opinion would be an invaluable addition to an enjoyable lunch.

Making our way to the counter we were greeted by smiling faces and engrossed by a multitude of eye-catching options including tarts, pies, burgers, fritters and salads. Knowing from previous experience that Let Them Eat creations were full flavoured and mouth-wateringly delicious, I prepared to try as much as possible.

We ordered the following between us:
Sweet corn and fetta fritter.
Risoni salad with lemon and currants.
Carrot and quinoa salad with toasted pepitas.
Sweet potato and goat cheese tart with wholemeal pastry.
Parsnip, sage and mascarpone arancini.
Spinach crepe with ratatouille.
Spiced chickpea salad with mushrooms.
Risoni salad with lemon and currants.

Taking our seat outside we discussed the sheer variety on offer, creating a vegetarian paradise. With many people changing their diet due to food allergies, it was comforting to see that the majority of the options were gluten free and some even catered for vegans.

When the food arrived, it was clear that I had possibly ordered too much; the serves were monumental and some of my order had to be brought on a separate plate. The sweet potato and goats cheese tart took me back to my first love affair with Let Them Eat at Fork on the Road. It still had the delicate fluffy texture with oodles of flavour that most people wouldn’t generally associate with vegetarian food. The salads were fresh, moist and had an abundance of character that was sensationally refreshing.

Powering through the first plate, I was quickly filling up, but I was enjoying the food too much to leave without at least trying everything. Cutting through the spinach crepe effortlessly I was immediately overcome by the richness of the ratatouille encased in the spinach pillow. The parsnip arancini had a wonderful crunchy seeded outer layer holding in the gooey goodness of the mild cheesy filling.

Relaxing in the hustle and bustle of continuous foot traffic, I slumped into the chair with a newfound respect for vegetarian food. Although I may not be a convert from my meat loving madness, it is clear that it is possible to achieve utter contentment through plants, grains and dairy without the addition of farmyard flesh.

As our plates were cleared, I passed on my gratitude to the staff and advised them of my intentions to review the lunch. Although they were expecting a review at some point, I had succeeded in achieving anonymity. Laura returned with some complimentary orange chocolate cake that I thought would tip me over; I was wrong, the cake was not at all dense. The delicious gluten free cake had what tasted like a candied orange in it which cut through the bitterness of rich chocolate. I had truly gorged myself on a delectable array of healthy options.

I was very impressed with the service, selection, value for money and flavours offered by the vegetarian eatery. My only suggestion would be the inclusion of some freshly squeezed juices or blended smoothies which would have been a welcomed accompaniment to the healthy lunch. I would have also enjoyed a selection of condiments such as chutney, relish or chilli jam rather than just caramelised onion with all serves.

I can most definitely say that I will be returning to Let Them Eat, whether it be at the cafe, a festival, farmers market or even if I am looking for a caterer that can provide alternative food. Whether you are vegetarian, vegan or an all-rounder like me, you will not be disappointed with any of the food on offer here. Jump on in and give yourself an education in wholesome nutritious food that your body and tastebuds will thank you for.

Darren Richards

Average Menu Pricing
Light Lunch - One or two salads with small item (fritters, burgers or risotto pies) $12
Light Lunch - One or two salads with large Item (tarts, crepes or slices) $14
Main Lunch - Choice of all salads with small item (fritters, burgers or risotto pies) $14
Main Lunch - Choice of all salads with large Item (tarts, crepes or slices) $16
Salad Only (choice of all) $12

Where: 16 Elizabeth Street, Croydon, 5008
Trading: Lunch Sunday to Wednesday 10am – 4pm, Friday & Saturday 10am – 5pm
Website: let-them-eat.com.au
Contact: (08) 8340 8872